I’ve grated a granny smith apple into the mix, tried the zest and juice from various citrus fruits and even added small amounts of cinnamon and freshly grated nutmeg. They were all good, but I still felt I could do a little better.

This year I think I’ve finally found the right mix of things. Not that it will stop me from experimenting again next year.

grand marnier scented cranberry sauce

software

• 1 bag cranberries, washed
• 1 cup water
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• Zest and juice of one orange
• 1 vanilla bean split and scraped
• 1 shot Grand Marnier liqueur
• Pinch of kosher salt

assemblage

1. Bring the water to a boil and dissolve the cup of sugar
2. Add the cranberries let them cook for five to seven minutes
3. As the cranberries begin to swell and burst add the orange zest and juice and vanilla bean pulp (you can also toss in the actual beans for a few minutes if you want)
4. Stir to combine and cook for three more minutes
5. Pour in the shot of Grand Marnier and cook for about a minute, add the kosher salt and then remove from the heat
6. Allow to cool before refrigerating
7. Can be made a day or two in advance

Some of my risotto’s were intended to be served primo (as an appetizer) or secondo (as an entree). This particular recipes, which also happens to be the fifth and final installment in the fall flavors recipe series, is one I came up with for Thanksgiving dinner the first time I did my turkey osso bucco style.

While it is certainly hearty enough to stand on its own as a secondo, you could serve it as a side dish to go with any number of things like turkey or even braised short ribs.

hardware

• large saucepan or saucier
• wooden spoon, knife & cutting board
• measuring cups and spoons

software

• 1 cup roasted butternut squash (see link for recipe)
• Pancetta, diced
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 shallot, minced
• 1 cup Arborio rice
• ½ cup white wine
• 3 cups chicken stock
• 1/2 cup milk
• Salt and pepper, to taste

assemblage

• In a saucepan render the pancetta until crispy, then add the shallot and butter
• Once the butter is melted and the shallots are translucent add the Arborio rice and toast to two to three minutes
• Deglaze the pan with the white wine and allow the rice to absorb the liquid
• Begin ladling in the chicken stock a little at a time, allowing the rice to cook and absorb
• When the rice is al dente add the roasted butternut squash and milk
• Taste and adjust seasoning, if necessary

presentation

How you plate it all depends on how you intend to serve it. When I made this dish for this post I intended for it to be our entree and simply plated it up in a shallow bowl with some freshly grated parmegan reggiano cheese and a chiffonade of sage.

Fall Flavors: Roasted Butternut Squash Ravioli from PJ Mullen on Vimeo.

hardware

• food processor
• large mixing bowl
• spatula, measuring cups and spoon
• basting brush
• ravioli stamp – 2 inch (optional)
• drying rack

software

• 2 cups roasted butternut squash (see link for recipe)
• 1/2 cup ricotta cheese
• 1/2 cup mascarpone cheese
• 1/2 cup parmesan reggiano
• 2 large eggs
• 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
• fresh grated nutmeg to taste
• salt and pepper to taste
• 3-4 pounds fresh pasta sheets

assemblage

• combine the butternut squash, ricotta, mascarpone and parmensan cheeses, one egg, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt and pepper in a food processor and pulse until thoroughly mixed
• beat second egg in a bowl with a little water to thin it out
• spread out a pasta sheet and place 2 teaspoons of the squash mixture spaced about an inch to an inch and a half apart
• take the basting brush and lightly apply the egg wash to all edges and in between the little piles of the squash mixture
• lay a second pasta sheet of equal length on top of the first one and gently press to combine around the piles of the squash mixture, be sure to press out as much air as possible to avoid bursting while cooking
• take the ravioli stamp, fit around the pockets of the squash mixture and press down to seal and cut the pasta sheets (you can also do this with a sharp knife or pizza cutter, then use the tongs of a fork to press the edges closed)

presentation

These delicate raviolis are served with a brown butter sage sauce that is prepared by melting about 4 tablespoons of sweet cream butter with 6 to 8 fresh sage leaves. Melt the butter over a medium low heat and watch it closely as it starts to foam and turn a light brown.

The brown butter sage sauce will have a toasted, nutty taste to it, but it can also turn on you very fast if you aren’t watching it closely.

pearl onion & cranberry sauce

courtesy of Charlotte Magazine

• 2 tablespoons flour
• 1 ½ c. dried cranberries
• 2 c. peeled pearl onions
• 5 slices bacon (or pancetta)
• 1 c. dry sherry
• 1 c. chicken stock

1. Render bacon with pearl onions for 8-10 minutes
2. Add flour, stir to create a roux
3. Add sherry and chicken stock
4. Add cranberries
5. Simmer on low for 15-20 minutes

grand mariner scented orange cranberry sauce

• 1 cup water
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 1 12oz package cranberries
• zest and juice of one orange
• pulp of one vanilla bean or 1 teaspoon extract
• nutmeg, to taste
• cinnamon, to taste
• pinch, kosher salt
• 1 shot Grand Mariner liqueur

1. Combine the water and sugar in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil
2. Rinse the cranberries and sift through them to make sure they are all good
3. When the sugar has completely dissolved in the water add the cranberries
4. Return to a boil, then reduce to medium heat and cook for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the cranberries burst
5. Add the orange juice and zest, vanilla bean pulp (or extract), nutmeg, cinnamon, salt and shot of Grand Mariner
6. Cook for three to five minutes on low, then remove from the heat
7. Put the cranberry sauce in a storage container uncovered for thirty to forty minutes, then cover and refrigerate until it is time to serve

garlic & parmesan smashed potatoes with chives & creme fraiche

• 8 or 9 medium Yukon gold potatoes
• 6 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 cup finely grated parmesan reggiano
• 1 container creme fraiche (can substitute sour cream)
• 1 package of chives, finely chopped

1. Boil the potatoes whole for 35 to 40 minutes, or until fork tender
2. Drain the water and smash the potatoes with a masher
3. Add the garlic, parmesan and half of the creme fraiche and combine
4. Add the remaining creme fraiche and chives, then cover until ready to serve

sauteed green beans with garlic & white wine

• 1# green beans, trimmed and washed
• olive oil
• 1 shallot, minced
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 1/2 cup white wine
• 1 14.5 oz can diced tomatoes, drained (optional)
• salt and pepper to taste

1. In a medium sauce pan bring some water to boil
2. Blanche the green beans for two to three minutes, then remove and shock in an ice cold water bath
3. In a saute pan heat some olive oil, then add the shallot and garlic and cook for two to three minutes
4. Add the blanched green beans to the pan, then season with salt and pepper and cook for two to three minutes
5. Bring up the heat in the pan and then deglaze with the white wine
6. Then add the drained diced tomatoes, if you so choose, cover and remove from heat until ready to serve

stay tuned for tomorrow’s installment – chocolate pecan pie

Growing up I used to liberally apply French’s yellow mustard to most vegetables as a means of getting them to slide down my throat. While this method was necessary while living under my parent’s roof, it was an entirely different story once the decisions were mine alone to make.

As I made my weekly run to Trader Joe’s I noticed that they had fresh brussel sprouts still on the stalk. Seeing them reminded me of a Thanksgiving show I saw on Food Network last year where Chef Michael Symon demonstrated an interesting preparation that he serves at his holiday table.

With a great deal of wonder I set out to recreate his dish in hopes that I could change my opinion of these little cabbage like substances. In the end I was rewarded for my bravery and gained new insight to the tried and true culinary axiom that bacon can make anything taste better.

sauteed shredded brussel sprouts

adapted from Chef Michael Symon

hardware

saute pan
measuring cups and spoons
knife, cutting board and wooden spoon

software

1 brussel sprout stalk (about 1 pound)
6 bacon slices, chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup chicken stock
2 tablespoons horseradish mustard
1/4 cup pecans, chopped
1 tablespoon flat leaf parsley, chopped
salt and pepper, to taste

assemblage

• remove brussel sprouts from the stalk, cut in half and chopped
• render the bacon in the saute pan until crispy
• add the shredded brussel sprouts, olive oil and butter and garlic, saute for two to three minutes
• deglaze the pan with the rice wine vinegar and chicken stock
• stir in the mustard, pecans and parsley, cook for two to three minutes
• adjust seasoning, if necessary

presentation

With the sauted shredded brussel sprouts finished I piled them up on a plate and served them with some Korean style sesame short ribs. Regrettably I over seasoned them a touch, but they were otherwise quite tasty. I thought the addition of rice wine vinegar would be good, but in hindsight I think the sweetness from balsamic would have been a better choice. Also, I was forced to use walnuts instead of pecans, which were good, but the substitution was rather obvious.

As with the first recipe in this series I put together a quick video showing how I made the dish. I hope you enjoy it.

Fall Flavors: Roasted Butternut Squash Lasagna with Port Wine Cranberries from PJ Mullen on Vimeo.

hardware

• food processor and/or blender
• stock pot to cook pasta
• saucepan or saucier
• spatula, whisk, spoons
• measuring cups and spoons
• 13 X 9 buttered baking dish

software

• 4 cups roasted butternut squash (see link for recipe)
• 1 15 oz container ricotta cheese
• 2 large eggs
• 3 or 4 amaretti cookie, ground*
• Salt and pepper, to taste
• 1 package lasagna noodles or fresh pasta sheets
• 1/4 cup butter
• 1/4 cup flour
• 3 cups milk
• nutmeg, grated fresh or ground, to taste
• 1 cup port wine cranberry sauce (see link for recipe)
• 1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese
• 1/4 cup Parmesan Reggiano, grated

assemblage

• preheat oven to 350 degree
• fill the stock pot with water and bring a boil
• pulverize the amaretti cookies in the food processor and set aside
• puree the butternut squash in the food processor, then add the eggs and ricotta cheese
• add the amaretti cookies and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, refrigerate the filling until needed
• melt the butter in sauce pan or saucier, add the flour and whisk constantly until combine
• slowly add the milk to the butter and flour mixture, whisking constantly, then bring it to a boil
• reduce the heat and fold in the port wine cranberry sauce (you can transfer the bechemel to a blender to more thoroughly combine the cranberry sauce, if desired)
• spread a thin layer of the cranberry bechemel sauce in the butter baking dish and add your first layer of pasta noodle
• alternate layering the butternut squash puree filling, cranberry bechemel and pasta noodles until your baking dish is nearly ful
• cover with any remaining cranberry bechemel and then top with a generous layer of shredded mozzarella cheese
• cover with aluminum foil and bake for 35 minutes, then remove the foil and bake uncovered for 5 to 10 minutes or until the cheese is completely melted and crispy.

presentation

Whether you are serving this as an entree or a side item it is no different than any other lasagna you’ve had. I just divided it up into equal sided servings and since this was our main dish the night I made it I plated it up all by its lonesome.

Just a word of caution on the amaretti cookies, three is plenty for this recipe, but if you want it a touch sweeter you can use four. Any more than that and it can get really sweet fast. The tartness of the cranberries does help, but just be careful. They are small and the first time I made this I didn’t think it “looked” like enough.

Related articles by Zemanta

• Reinterpreting lasagna (realmendriveminivans.com)
• fall flavors (peachesenrisotto.com)
• Fall flavors (realmendriveminivans.com)

This post originally appeared on my fatherhood blog Real Men Drive Minivans on September 9, 2009.

Whenever I find a good deal on pork I get excited because that means I usually get to experiment with some Latin flavors. For some reason the thought of Cuban style pork marinating in the refrigerator makes me happy. Not only because of the incredibly bright flavors and seasonings, but because that usually means I get to do something fun with plantains.

Until about a year ago I never tried using plantains in my cooking, then I made my first batch of tostones. They came out great and provided a wonderful lesson in how to pick my plantains. Personally, I like them when they are greener and consequently more starchy. My wife, however, prefers them more ripened so they have a sweeter flavor.

My experiment with tostones lead to a few attempts at making mofongo, which, if you have never had it, you must give it a try. Mofongo is essentially plantains that have been cooked (either by boiling or frying), mashed and then mixed with garlic, pork rinds (although I use bacon), olive oil, salt and pepper and water or chicken stock.

The few times I’ve made mofongo we were pretty happy with the results, but I am not one to rest on my laurels. So, when the need for some Cuban style pork came calling, I decided that I wanted to reinvent mofongo to serve as a side dish.

In my first attempt I went about making mofongo as I usually do, but added some egg and a little Parmesan cheese to act as a binder. Then I formed the mofongo into cakes, dredged them in flour and returned them to the frying pan. The result was good, but dense and not nearly as satisfying as I had hoped.

I had imagined something more like a cross between tostones and mofongo, but lighter and crispier. Then my wife, being the smart one in the relationship, asked if I had considered shredding the plantains and making the mofongo cakes like I would a potato pancake.

With that suggestion the stage was set for a glorious second act, as I proceeded to shred the plantains and mix them with the usual suspects. This time the result was everything I had hoped for and, while I’m sure this isn’t truly an original, I had never seen anything like it.

Mofongo cakes

Hardware

Medium mixing bowl
Box grater
Frying or saute pan
Platter covered in paper towels, for draining
Spatula, spoon and tongs or slotted spoon

Software

3 plantains
3 bacon slices, rendered and crumbled
2 eggs
1 medium onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 c. parmesan cheese, grated fine
Salt and pepper, to taste
Canola or vegetable oil for frying

Assemblage

• Grate the plantains and put into the mixing bowl
• Add the eggs, onion, garlic, bacon, cheese and mix to combine
• Lightly add salt and pepper to taste
• Spoon the mixture into the waiting oil and fry on both sides for approximately two to three minutes
• Remove from the pan when done and drain excess oil
• Lightly season the cooked mofongo cakes with salt and pepper while still hot, if desired

i had made a potato flan before, but that time i had made it in a large casserole pan. this time i decided that it would be more fun to make them in an individual portion size to allow for greater plating flexibility.

a potato flan is very simple to make, but it is time consuming. between peeling and slicing the potatoes, preparing the ramekins and layering the dish, it does require a decent amount of preparation. however, these potato flans can be made the day before and then cooked, or simply reheated in the oven the next day.

we have been consuming our fair share of potatoes lately, as i’ve learned through experience that potatoes generally do not adversely impact my blood sugar. as a result, they have found their way into a number of my recent dinner preparations.

as we have done with just about every meal we’ve had recently, we tried to see if our son would have any interest. given his history with potatoes i didn’t hold out much hope that our little man would take to the potato flan, but much to our surprise he gobbled it right up from mommy’s plate.

savory potato flan

hardware

medium mixing bowl
six to eight ramekins
parchment paper
mandolin
whisk and other utensils

software

• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
• 1 tablespoon garlic powder
• 1 tablespoon onion powder
• 9 Yukon Gold potatoes, very thinly sliced (about 3 pounds)
• 4 oz pound gruyere, grated
• 4 oz emmenthaler, grated
• 1/4 cup parmesan reggiano, grated fine
• 3 eggs
• 1 1/2 cups heavy cream
• 1 tablespoon kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg

assemblage

• preheat the oven to 375 degrees
• whisk the eggs, heavy cream, salt, pepper, nutmeg and parmesan cheese together, then refrigerate
• butter the ramekins and place parchment paper at the bottom, then refrigerate
• peel and slice the potatoes using the mandolin
• begin layering the potatoes, gruyere and emmenthaler cheeses, and garlic and onion powder, pressing down gently with each layer until each ramekin is nearly full
• pour the custard mixture into each ramekin, pressing down slightly to distribute the mixture throughout the layers and allowing a few minutes for the custard to be absorbed
• place the ramekins in the oven covered with either aluminum foil or parchment paper and bake for one hour and ten minutes
• remove the foil or paper and cook for an additional fifteen to 15 minutes
• remove the potato flans from the oven and allow them to cool for approximately 15 minutes

presentation

the potato flans can be plated by simply turning them upside down onto a the dish you wish to use. you may need to run a pairing knife or other small pointed instrument around the edges to ensure the sides do not stick. then simply remove the parchment paper off of the top of the flan and prepare the rest of your meal.

the flan that i made this particular time was a little larger than i had anticipated for a single serving. so, i cut it in half, which added to the dramatic effect of viewing the various layers, and plated them with a pan seared steak and some baby spinach simply with a balsamic dressing.

if you have leftovers, or you prepared them in advance, they will reheat nicely the next day in a 400 degree oven for about fifteen to twenty minutes.

This post originally appeared on my fatherhood blog Real Men Drive Minivans on September 29, 2009.

One of the things I enjoy about cooking, and talking about the things I make, is how one dish can be reinterpreted to better reflect someones tastes or to adapt to the ingredients on hand. A good friend of mine and I really enjoy experimenting in the kitchen have been sharing our culinary exploits long before I started writing this blog.

The weekend before last he shared the story of a dish he had created when he went to make some stuffed peppers for dinner. When the peppers he had were misshapen and not likely to work, he decided to get a little creative by layering them in a casserole pan by cutting the sides of the peppers off into panels.

As I thought about his dish I realized that it would be something that my wife would really enjoy. We talked about the different directions in which this dish could be taken and our conversation sparked some creativity of my own.

We discussed putting an Italian spin on it by turning it into a play on lasagna with the green bell peppers being substituted for noodles. I considered making a pesto sauce to act as a binder for the filling mixture, but to keep it true to its inspiration I went with a ricotta cheese mixture.

The finished product came out quite good and it is something that I will definitely continue to tinker with over time. Personally, I don’t think this is substantial enough to be a meal all on its own, but it would make for a nice side dish or even go over well as an appetizer.

Bell pepper lasagna

Hardware

Saute pan
Medium sauce pan
13 X 9 oven safe dish
Large mixing bowl
Tongs, spatula and spoons
Measuring cups

Software

5 green bell peppers, cut into panels
2 ears of fresh corn, cut off the cob
1 medium leek, chopped
1 medium onion, diced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup orzo pasta (before cooking)
3 links of Italian style turkey sausage, uncased
1 cup ricotta cheese
1 egg
1/4 cup parmesan reggiano
1 teaspoon dry basil leaves
1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese
salt and pepper to taste
olive oil

Assemblage

• Preheat the over to 350 degrees
• Bring water in the sauce pan to boil and cook the orzo according to the directions, when finished drain and allow to cool (drizzle a little olive oil and mix to prevent sticking)
• Sweat the onions, then add the leeks, corn and garlic, then saute for five or six minutes, remove from pan and allow to cool
• Break up the turkey sausage and brown in the saute pan until mostly cooked, then remove and allow to cool
• Mix the egg, ricotta, parmesan, basil, salt and pepper in a small bowl, set aside
• Combine the vegetables and sausage when completely cooled, then add the ricotta
• Use the bell peppers like lasagna sheets and spread them out in the 13 X 9 dish
• Add the vegetable, sausage and cheese mixture, then add the top layer of bell peppers
• Top with the shredded mozzarella, then cover with aluminum foil and put it the oven for 30 minutes
• Remove the foil, turn the oven to broil and continue to cook for 5 more minutes, or until the cheese forms a nicely browned crust

After giving it ten or twelve minutes to cool off, just divide it up like you would a lasagne and pile it up on a plate.

Variations on a Theme

You can take the filling mixture in any direction you want to go. I kept it simple with just the corn, leeks and onion because I thought it complimented the sausage well and it is what I had available.

If you wanted to eliminate the sausage and go strictly veggie, then you’re options are pretty much limitless. Also, if you aren’t crazy about ricotta cheese, then you could go with my initial idea, which was to use a pesto sauce to bind it all together.

You can view the Whrrl story I created for this recipe right here.